I’ve watched with some puzzlement the raging popularity of Bangalore’s newer purveyors of tiffin. The darshini, the Mumbai equivalent being the Udupi and that of Delhi, the Sagar, has an important place on the urban landscape, catering to those who must, by necessity, eat inexpensively. Much like street food vendors, these modest eateries, with their limited menus of South Indian staples, keep huge swathes of the population fed and fuelled.
In recent times, however, standing in queue for 30 minutes or more and then jostling to get one’s hands on a thatte idli doused with an unreasonable amount in ghee and podi has become a bucket-list item for many; a majority of them are not compelled by their circumstances to do so. As an observer of restaurants and customer behaviour, I would venture to note that it’s a combination of hype generated in social media and FOMO – another outcome of our engagement with social media -- that drives this behaviour, rather than the particular deliciousness of the food itself.
While the urge to try the fad or flavour of the season is natural, I am proposing that eating out, particularly when it is discretionary, should be a more considered decision than the mere act of following the herd. And then being compelled to admire the emperor’s new clothes, in this case, average restaurant offerings.
If you are privileged to have access to home-cooked food, eating out should be mainly for the pleasure it yields. You cannot depend on restaurant meals to fulfill your dietary needs or nourishment. That can only be met through homemade meals. And more about that in a future essay.
If, then, we are agreed that eating out should be an indulgence in one of life’s joys, to be approached with thought and consideration, where should you dine?
Patronize and support restaurants with an avowed commitment to sustainable food practices. This means restaurants that pay attention to their ingredients, how they source them and from where. They will showcase produce that is local and seasonal to the extent possible and treat them with the respect they deserve. A sustainable food business will work to reduce waste and cause the least environment damage. Above all, it will serve food that is tasty, satisfying and nourishing.
Seek out establishments owned and run by professional chefs, rather than companies. Companies rarely have a conscience, only individuals do. And the cooking and feeding of people is nothing if not an act of conscience to do a good thing. Such restaurants are far more likely to reflect the chef’s food philosophy, resulting in high quality plates.
Next, choose to eat in single-outlet restaurants. The chains with multiple branches are largely focused on the commercial aspect to the exclusion of all else; food quality is often compromised in the process.
Look also for restaurants that have a clear concept. They could be dedicated to a specific regional cuisine, be a showcase for local ingredients or be committed to the cause of sustainability.
Should you patronize swank restaurants in luxury hotels? Yes, if it’s a speciality dining room with a chef de cuisine at its helm. The all-day restaurant or coffee shop of a hotel, is not a place to find great meals, its focus being on putting out large spreads, rather than good food.
Restaurants with small menus are always better than those with 200-plus dishes. Small menus are an assurance that the food is fresh and each dish receives the attention of the chefs.
Having decided on where you will eat, there are things you can do to enhance the experience. Order with care, keeping in mind the balance of flavours, textures and temperatures. Mix rich, indulgent dishes with light ones. Check portion sizes with the staff and order accordingly. Learn how to order when eating solo, with a companion and in a large group. Eating until slightly less than full is better than overeating. Eating out doesn’t have to be an excuse for excess.
Once you place your order, exercise patience. Good food takes time. If you are in a hurry, it’s better to go to a grab-and-go place than to a sit-down restaurant.
Treat restaurant staff with respect. They do one of the hardest jobs around. A smile, some banter, a tip makes things better and assures you of good service.
If you have complaints or feedback about the food, pass it on to someone in charge in a way that it can be construed as positive feedback.
Try not to waste food or other materials such as napkins and water bottles. Better still, say ‘no’ to bottled water. If there is leftover food in adequate quantities, request for it to be packed up. Give it away to someone. It’s not a great idea to refrigerate and reheat restaurant food.
To be foodwize is to make good choices at every step of every food-centred activity. These choices should be good for you, the community, which includes the producers of food, and the planet.